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Anyone surf?


alex_lee8

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Hey all, just thought i'd ask - any surfers out there?

 

 

 

Last weekend i snagged my first few barrels, and I'm stoked out of my head!

 

 

 

I got them on video, dont think they'll make youtube though, its quite embarassing!

 

 

 

So yeah, anyone - even spongers (bodyboarders for those of you who are like "spongers???") who surfs, just reply, make yourself known!

 

 

 

Cheers!

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I love to surf, it's like my life. (that, volleyball, and parkouor)

 

Where are you located?

 

 

 

Devon, England. You?

 

And I can't say I play much volleyball, but i practice parkour a lot too!

 

 

 

I surf the internet, does that count?

 

 

 

Hehe, not quite, thanks for posting though!

 

 

 

I learned how to surf in Hawaii. It was a blast.

 

 

 

Sweet! I want to go there when I'm older. If i do go I probably won't even surf the famous breaks like Pipe, but I'd love to just see them working.

 

 

 

 

 

I'm going to Indo after my exams, stoked!

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ooooohhhhhhmmmmyyyyy!

 

You are so lucky!!!

 

Over here we get the occasional good day, but its only ever really really good in the winter, and its freezing then!

 

 

 

What board do you usually ride?

 

 

 

I have a 6'4 and a 7'6.

 

I want to get a new one but can't decide whether to go for an all out performance nose rider, or a fish for the sloppier summer days when i want to bust some nice turns.

 

 

 

I went sponging the other day, got barrelled lol, and got one barrel on my mini mal. Stoked!

 

 

 

You ever got a barrel? It was my first one :D

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I've bodyboarded since i was 13-14 and I've always loved it could only do it when I went on holiday though.

 

 

 

Going to Newquay in a few weeks after my exams with the lads so I hope to maybe learn then :D

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I have a 6'3" shortboard, one of my friends brothers designs customs, so my parents got me it for my birthday at a fairly good price for a custom board. I've only been barreled a few times, but usually we go down a ways from the pier where all of the good waves are, because it's so crowded, and there are some really jerky people out ther <.< .

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Yeah i know what you mean, in summer i get dropped in on all the time, but people who have never surfed in there lives.

 

Its frustrating because when a good day comes in the summer which is rare, all the townies get on it and its just a waste of time because its so crowded.

 

I need to find some secret spots lol.

 

Sweet, mines a maurice cole custom (not built custom for me though lol).

 

 

 

Barrelling is soo cool, im stoked on it now!

 

The beach where i did it is really steep at high tide, turns into a shore dump. Great for bodyboarding in! I tried surfing it ages ago, but im too scared ill snap my board.

 

I love the feeling of being barrelled, especially when you actually see out of it, its great.

 

Most of the times i got barrelled it just closed out on my head, but you still get to be inside it for a second.

 

 

 

Baron8000 - sweet! Newquay is the centre of surfing really, although everyone there seems hellbent on getting drunk!

 

You'll find waves if you stay there for long enough, but be warned, crowds will also find them!

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San-O Trail 18 (But don't tell anyone :-$ )

 

 

 

That's like my favorite place, waves are great, no one i ever down there, but it's like a half hour drive, and I can understand why my mom doesn't like to drive down there just to drop me and a few friends off unless the beach is like uber crowded.

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Baron8000 - sweet! Newquay is the centre of surfing really, although everyone there seems hellbent on getting drunk!

 

You'll find waves if you stay there for long enough, but be warned, crowds will also find them!

 

 

 

First holiday without my parents, 18 a week or two before...What you think I plan to do :wink:

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The last time I attempted to surf, I got smashed by a wave and ended up with no bikini on, delightful! I have not tried to surf since :lol:

igoddessIsig.png

 

The only people who tell you that you can't do something are those who have already given up on their own dreams so feel the need to discourage yours.

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Never heard the term before, but I'm a "sponger" :-w .

 

 

 

It's pretty fun, but dang does it hurt your stomach...

[if you have ever attempted Alchemy by clapping your hands or

by drawing an array, copy and paste this into your signature.]

 

Fullmetal Alchemist, you will be missed. A great ending to a great series.

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Baron8000 - sweet! Newquay is the centre of surfing really, although everyone there seems hellbent on getting drunk!

 

You'll find waves if you stay there for long enough, but be warned, crowds will also find them!

 

 

 

First holiday without my parents, 18 a week or two before...What you think I plan to do :wink:

 

 

 

Hehehe! Nice one! Apparently the best cure for a hangover is a nice cold fresh surf, so your in for the best holiday ever!

 

 

 

Tried once, fell off, got cold and decided surfing wasn't for me. At least not in the Irish Sea, brrr.

 

 

 

I still wear the clothes though

 

 

 

Well its better than wearing burberry/fred perry/lacoste eh? Respect for giving it a go :thumbsup:

 

 

 

Never heard the term before, but I'm a "sponger".

 

 

 

It's pretty fun, but dang does it hurt your stomach...

 

 

 

It is fun i agree! I think most surfers started off as bodyboarders too.

 

And i respect you guys, bodyboarders pioneered some of the sickest reefs around for years before us stand ups even dared go near them!

 

Plus its great to just go and get barrelled on a bodyboard!

 

 

 

When you do it do you sometimes find that when you try and bottom turn you skid out and go sideways? I kept doing that when i was trying to get pitted, it was frustrating! But maybe it was just because i haven't bodyboarded in a while. I'm going to buy some fins i enjoyed it so much!

 

 

 

The last time I attempted to surf, I got smashed by a wave and ended up with no bikini on, delightful! I have not tried to surf since

 

 

 

Dang i wish i'd been there!

 

 

 

Hehe, it happens to the best of us, don't worry.

 

Nice one for giving it a go! \'

 

 

 

 

 

And Errdoth, can't say I've heard of that, and can't say i know any other surfers from your area, so don't worry, your secrets safe with me!

 

Man, if the nearest surf spot was half an hour from me I'd be pro! It takes me over an hour to get anywhere decent unless we get a rare south coast swell (about twice a year if that).

 

 

 

But its ok, we usually stay for a weekend so catch the swell friday night, saturday and sunday. Thats if there is any swell...

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Man you are the luckiest guy alive!

 

 

 

And no im not kidding, its over an hour to the nearest consistent place!

 

 

 

3 hours if you want a good chance of heavy barrels on the right swell and wind (which doesn't happen often).

 

 

 

Man i gotta move to CA!

 

 

 

Is it true that everyone drives everywhere there?

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Woah, weird!

 

I skate everywhere i go, on my longboard.

 

Its fun, and quite quick.

 

And if its wet i ride my bike or get a lift.

 

But to school i just bike or skate, get a lift to badminton and surfing, skate or bike to tennis, walk or skate to girlfriends...

 

 

 

Thats about everywhere i go lol!

 

 

 

Except im gonna get a plane to Indonesia after exams, thats a bit different though!

 

 

 

In-game i just bought 20k raw lobs and now im broke lol.

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I learned how to surf in Hawaii. It was a blast.

 

 

 

Sweet! I want to go there when I'm older. If i do go I probably won't even surf the famous breaks like Pipe, but I'd love to just see them working.

 

 

 

The biggest waves I've ever seen were on the Maui North Shore. It was beautiful.. The waves were so big for a while they had the close down the highway running along the north shore.

 

 

 

But sadly, I don't surf. I suppose if I lived near the ocean it would be something I'd enjoy doing but since I live in Iowa it's kind of out of the question. :P

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Occasionally I surf, I don't have a board anymore. D:

 

 

 

Most of my freetime involves me and my friends bumming around, or skating; Usually both.

 

 

 

It does help that I have Bondi and Manly within 30 minutes ride from my house. I usually surf at long reef though. ;P

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