Lord Diddy

I have a lot of experience with Windows, but OSX I've recently been learning about. Well my brother brought his old ibook G4 running Panther (10.3) to me hoping for an upgrade to a newer OSX. Im sure this can only handle Leopard, maybe SL. I'll post up complete specs later. I have the CD for Leopard (10.5) but sadly the CD/Dvd rom is not working properly. I managed to get the .dmg image file from the CD using another Macbook Pro, but the bootable USB drive isnt recognized as a bootable disk. The USB is recognized in OSX (where I made the usb bootable) but when I bring up the boot options it only shows the HDD with Panther installed. Is there any alternatives to installing an OS without CD, and without usb boot capability? I'm not sure if the limitation is from the currently installed Panther or the model itself. Specs Hardware Overview: Machine Model: iBook G4 CPU Type: PowerPC G4 (1.1) Number Of CPUs: 1 CPU Speed: 1.2 GHz L2 Cache (per CPU): 512 KB Memory: 768 MB Bus Speed: 133 MHz Boot ROM Version: 4.8.7f1 System Software Overview: System Version: Mac OS X 10.3.9 (7W98) Kernel Version: Darwin 7.9.0 Boot Volume: Macintosh HD Computer Name: justin says’ Computer User Name: Isaiah (justinsays) Memory: DIMM0/BUILT-IN: Size: 256 MB Type: Built-in Speed: Built-in DIMM1/J7: Size: 512 MB Type: DDR SDRAM Speed: PC2700U-25330 PCI/AGP Cards: ATY,RV280M9+: Type: display Bus: AGP VRAM (Total): 32 MB Vendor: ATI (0x1002) Device ID: 0x5c63 Revision ID: 0x0001 ROM Revision: 113-xxxxx-142 Display: Type: display Display Type: LCD VRAM (In Use): 32 MB Resolution: 1024 x 768 Depth: 32-bit Color Main Display: Yes Mirror: Off Online: Yes ATA: ATA-3 Bus: MATSHITA CD-RW CW-8123: Manufacturer: MATSHITA Model: MATSHITA CD-RW CW-8123 Revision: CA10 Serial Number: Drive Type: CD-RW/DVD-ROM Disc Burning: Apple Supported/Shipped Removable Media: Yes Detachable Drive: No Protocol: ATAPI Unit Number: 0 Socket Type: Internal ATA-6 Bus: Vendor ID: 0x106b Device ID: 0x003b Revision ID: 0x0000 FUJITSU MHT2030AT: Capacity: 27.94 GB Model: FUJITSU MHT2030AT Revision: 819C Serial Number: NN96T4B134R9 Removable Media: No Detachable Drive: No BSD Name: disk0 Protocol: ATA Unit Number: 0 Socket Type: Internal OS9 Drivers: No Macintosh HD: Capacity: 27.82 GB Available: 3.66 GB Writable: Yes File System: Journaled HFS+ BSD Name: disk0s3 Mount Point: /

Keep in a rice bag (it has some good reasoning because it absorbs water) and let it sit for at least a few days. Make sure to flip the ipod on different sides to allow all the moisture to be absored through. Don't try to be impatient and use a hair dryer to dry it (contrary to popular belief it doesn't work and its actually harmful) or try to turn it on after a few hours, if anything is wet inside and you run electricity through it , then all your hopes of reviving your Ipod will be gone. Leave it alone for a couple of days in a Zip-Lock bag, and good luck.

What browsers(IE,Firefox,Chrome) do all of your computers use? if you are successful log-in on, for example, Firefox but on Opera you are having trouble then it might be a good idea to switch and install the browser that works for you. Also check your cookie settings and make sure you have Java updated to the latest version. Www.Java.com

Well im sure some of you know of the "Yellow Light of Death" that occurs on the playstation (along with xbox) where the system stops working because of overheating. This is a rather long post to help organize what advice I'm looking for. Asking in 2011 I was hoping there would be new light on this subject and finding the most efficient method for this. Currently there are two methods that I've read that can reflow these chips and let the PS3 last for a month or two at best. But there have been people who have achieved almost a year, possibly because of low usage or careful heat consideration while in use or more importantly managed to do a higher quality reflow. [Hide= Method 1 *Heat Gun Reflow (Gilksy Method)*] Using a Heat Gun on a specific thermal setting to (hopefully) reach the melting point of the solder and achieve a reflow [/hide] [hide= Method 2 *Oven Reflow*] Taken from http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-fix-a-YLOD-PS3-with-an-oven/step6/Reflowing/ THE ACTUAL STEPS: Well, the time has finally come. Place the PS3 board on a counter top like you did when you prepped it for the low temp bake and check to make sure it is level. Then, put it on a pizza tray. Put the motherboard in on the middle rack, towards the front of your oven. Place the thermometer you hopefully purchased in the oven, where you can see it through the door. Turn the temperature up to 500 degrees Fahrenheit. Relax. The oven will not reach this temperature. Take a seat on the floor and watch the thermometer. Once the needle rolls to approximately 460F, turn off the oven an throw open the door. The thermometer will rise a few degrees before it falls. Do not panic. Take a box fan, osculating fan (set to not osculate), or similar, put it on its lowest setting, and place it OUTSIDE THE EDGE OF THE OVEN DOOR TO THE LEFT OR RIGHT, NOT DIRECTLY IN FRONT, WITH THE FAN BLOWING AIR AWAY FROM, I REPEAT, AWAY FROM THE OVEN, AND NOT NOT NOT INTO IT. The idea here is the pull hot air from the face of the oven, without creating any significant disturbance to the motherboard within. This will speed up the cool down, as explained in the theory. Once the board is close to room temp, feel free to remove it. [/hide] Question Obviously going to use No-clean Flux, that's just soldering 101. Now I'm more of a fan of using the heat gun method, but it would be a more higher risk approach with a higher possibility of a quality reflow to use the oven method. Any thoughts, ideas, advice, or recommendation to guides on this idea? Also general soldering tips will be greatly helpful. I'm more than confident in my ability to DO a reflow, but I'm looking for more than just having it work for 2 weeks. *Using Arctic silver for thermal paste, will slightly modify the PS3 case with more air and extra fans, and I'm in no position to attempt reballing on my own. Thanks.

I've read through the wiki a few times over and I've seen the difference in specs. Im wondering is there an visible quality difference between a 1.3 cable and a 1.4 cable when, for the sake of comparison, while playing PS3 video game? I really doubt it would be some life turning event when I start using my 1.4 cable, but it'd be nice to know if there's any improvement.

Same here, this is the first I've seen this. think its just all about prying money out of customers, but I do see how 3D screens are taking advantage because it requires higher bitrates and gbps rates. But it also would be nice knowing if I could push a bit more quality out of my tech for only a few extra dollars.

So while shopping online for a nice small HDMI cable I noticed that there are versions that grabbed my attention. Now since there are (look below) this many types of specifications, will I see any real-world diffrence in a 1.3 cable or a 1.4 cable? I'm aware of the increase in resolution capabilities, but I almost fell out of my chair when i saw a ridiculously overpriced "monster" hdmi cable for 90 dollars + shipping. Also are these backwards compatible with all HDMI devices? I bought a 1.4 HDMI for a few bucks on eBay, but i'd like to know if theres any practical difference in quality between versions and overpriced cables. Versions: 1.0 1.1 1.2 1.2a 1.3 1.3a 1.3b 1.3b1 1.3c 1.4 1.4a

You're definietly are going to lose money if you buy them for 30m, they will probably stabilize at around 15-20 mil. Thats of course unless in the time you use the boots, you can go monster hunting and use the increased stats to pay for the cost of buying them. Don't take risks if you don't want to lose money, but than again 10-15m isn't a lot nowadays.

Now are we talking about 2,000 USD or 2,000 Riyals ? conversion is about 550 when converted from riyal to usd. Well your location does seem to make it a bit harder to ship to, personally I don't have experience in shipping there so my advice, like above, is to find local stores or a company that is located around your area so you don't get gutted with major shipping expenses. We could definitely help you figure out the confusing computer jargon that the sales rep will talk when you're trying to buy one from a store. Lets take for example one of the computers you posted and how to compare and read technical specs: Processor: AMD Athlon™ II X2 250U (1.6GHz/2MB cache) A processor (CPU) is essentially how fast the computer will run and process information. The "X2" denotes how many cores it will have, in which both cores will help process the information making it more efficient than a single core. The 1.6gHz is the speed on how fast it's going to run, it really depends on the architecture of the chip but faster ghz = faster CPU. The "2MB Cache" after the slash is the size of the cache and helps your processor store copies of data that you use often so it greatly helps, bigger the better. Operating System: Windows® 7 Home Premium 64-Bit The operating system (OS) that will come with the computer, self explanatory. the "64bit" at the end denotes that its a 64bit OS and can support more than 3GB of Memory (Ram), seeing as this build comes with 4GB of memory it makes sense. Memory: 4GB Dual Channel DDR3 SDRAM at 1333Mhz – 2 DIMMS (Expandable Up to 8GB) Memory is the multitasking factor of a computer used by programs and the OS to store information temporarily, if a computer were a track field runner the processor would be how fast he can run, and the memory would be how far he could run. "4GB" is how much ram is available (more the better),"DDR3" very important because its the latest generation of ram (its cheaper, faster, and the standard for newer computers) "dual channel" means its running two ram sticks at the same time, "1333Mhz" is how fast the ram will process and send out temporarily stored information (faster the better). Lastly "expandable up to 8Gb" denotes that the meximum it can handle is two RAM sticks that are of 4GB each 4+4 = 8Gb total. Hard Drive: 750GB SATA hard drive (7200RPM) Very crucial part of system that stores ALL your information, including the operating system files, your music/photos/games/movies, easily upgradable. "750GB" how much information can be stored inside the drive, "SATA" is standard now that denotes the 7-pin standard interface used to connect to a motherboard, "7200RPM" is Rotations Per Minute and is really the minimum a hard drive should have (5400RPM hdds are slower) Wireless: Dell Wireless 1501 (802.11n) WLAN half mini-Card (Built-in) Nothing confusing, supports wireless "802.11n" is the latest standard for WI-fi devices (faster, and more range than b/g) Optical Drive: 8X CD/DVD burner (DVD+/-RW), write to CD/DVD CD Drive that reads CDs and also allows you to burn (write information) onto a blank CD. You can make DVDs or save information onto a cd Video Card: ATI HD4270 RadeonTM VERY VERY important and very easy to get ripped off here. Kind of lengthy to explain but read this http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20100216114239AAfZKIw. A $999 computer shouldn't come with a crappy video card like this. You hear on sales " SUPER POWERED GRAPHICS HD RADEON 4270" and everyone goes crazy thinking its the latest technology but the "2" in 4270 repesents that it is a budget low-end card. Screen: 23” LCD w/WLED Backlighting, Full HD (1080p) resolution of 1920 x 1080 with optional multi-touchscreen Self-explanatory, its 23 inch diagonally, with a 1080p and 1920x1080 pixel resoultion with a touchscreen Contrast Ratio: 1000:1 How deep the blacks and white "depths" are, higher contrast ratio the better If anyone wants to elaborate on something please do so, I tried to make it as simple as possible.

Which country do you live in? also are you looking for a touch screen monitor or just any monitor would do? It would really be in your interest to see if you have a hardware store near you and get all the parts and pay them around 50 dollars to put it all together for you (we'll help you with the picking parts, depends on your location)

I'ts most likely a hardware problem rather than a software problem. Do you have any technology around your desktop that could be causing interference? anything from cell phones to radios can cause a problem.

http://runescape.wikia.com/wiki/Dagannoth_Prime Primes max hit is 610 Not exactly a prime source, but usually information like that is given with proof. But using lunar spell: monster examine, you can see Primes max hit.

[insert] = Question about Macs [Output] = Rivalry of PCs vs. Macs I'd go for the Air for school, but it really depends on what you need the computer to do. Basically said Macbook Air is lighter cheaper and good for everyday use, but Macbook Pros are for a bit more power a bit more expensive and heavier. Depends if you're traveling a lot and if all you really need is to do papers, check emails and light programs. (P.s im on the Pc end of the spectrum, I personally don't believe in paying over a grand for a laptop when I could get two laptop pcs for the same price)

Are you using the computer through a wireless router? there might be security features enabled that might be blocking you. Alternatively, download and try using the Runescape client and see if that works for you.

I completely agree that you should save your money for buying a new system. Its a dead end socket, DDR2 is being phased out, and considering that you're running a pretty low-end GPU its not likely that the boost from CPU will help. Its annoying and tempting, knowing you can upgrade, maybe you'll get a bit more incentive to build your own computer that can run significantly folds better than your current one. Trust us its not worth it. Also buying it doesn't have to be ridiculously expensive, especially if you build one yourself.

There are two things you can do to see if it's your computer or internet connection. -To see if it is your internet connection post your results from both. http://www.speedtest.net http://www.pingtest.net Which should look something like this -To see if it is your computer, check how many FPS you get while inside of a dungeon. (IIRC you press the ` key next to the numerical number 1) then type "display fps" It should look something like this in the corner of your screen, the higher the better.

But still keep in mind that you should a few times a month let the battery filly drain then fully charge it again.

Thats a nice budget build, personally I would've gone for a DDR3 motherboard since ddr2 is being phased out and the ram is more expensive. Just try to sell off the parts if you can or just keep them incase you want to keep your old build for another family member or as a backup. This video would fit nicely in one of the stickies where you post your computer specs. I like the use of the latex glove for carefulness :thumbup:

^^This. Might really help us if you can give us a model type/number for the router. Easy google searches for user guides would do wonders.

I've been retired since free trade came in but I know from past experience that people will check your stats before staking you high amounts. Chances are you're going to make a good build but wind up not finding people who are willing to stake you you're level or wind up staking against people with higher stats then you. I could only say that mage staker would be the best seeing as you'd only need to max out mage def and HP. As for the new breed of account build I can't help with that.

Try this method? worked for a friend, not really sure if its what you're looking for. Some apps that don't work for my phone I download through online markets and use my usb. http://pimpmyi.wordpress.com/all-tutorials-and-pages/install-cydia-apps-without-wifi/

It looks to me that the ps3 is overheating and the 3 beeps you hear is the ps3 trying to restart but being shut down immediately by the temperature sensor (kinda like an overheated cpu that will automatically shut off). Its very likely that it is overheating, is this one of the PS3 Slims or PS3 Fats? You can give it a shot using compressed air on it before opening and see if that gets you anywhere. Check the fan as said above^^ Make sure you read up on guides and watch videos, also just a tip that a PS3 should -never- be on a surface with carpet material on the bottom, it generates a lot of heat and isn't good for your system, maybe try operating it sideways for more air flow?

Heres a few things I found that might help. Assigning an application to different sound outputs Also heres a picture when going in Reltek audio options and on the top right corner selecting advanced device options. It allowed me to play music from my speakers while having a movie play in the background. I also used this in conjunction with the windows 7 mixer, it allowed windows to recognize the headphones and speakers as different outputs.

That video actually made me laugh for a while, you might have more talent making comedies.

That was a great post (actually I just literally ordered a pair of headphone splitters myself because of reading this), but I think it missed the mark on what the OP wanted. It was not rather having more outputs on his speakers but being able to play two audio streams separately without the sound combining. So basically as said in the post being able to listen to music with one output and having the game sounds play on another. Or I just totally misread the OPs post and this is exactly what he wanted :grin: I've tried some google searches but came up short, can't really find the best info that answers this directly. I know in windows 7 there is a mixer on the bottom where you can control different sounds playing from different applications. Theoretically using two sound cards you can simply mute whichever one you need or don't need, thus giving you two separate streams on different outputs. But im sure there's a program out there that does this effectively, ill search some more.