Guy

Try methods listed in the sticky.

There is the issue that ultimate is $100 more expensive, and most of the features are not needed. [hide=Comparison picture]Thanks google. Ignore the versions Starter, Home Basic, and Enterprise. The 3 that you are looking at are Home Premium, Professional and Ultimate.[/hide] Don't be fooled by the 'windows XP mode'. It basically runs windows xp within windows 7 in a virtual machine, and this is only needed for a select few programs which are usually corporate programs that are written SPECIFICALLY for windows XP. Most XP programs run in 7 just fine. Hey, I've played a game designed for 2000 on my computer running 7 home premium. OEM version, original equipment manufacturer version, is for system builders. It is identical to the retail version, apart from you can only use the install with the same motherboard that it was originally installed on, ie you can not change motherboards. You can call microsoft and have them give you a key, but this is against the terms of service and is illegal. Regardless, it is doubtful that they will flag you up on it, and by the time you build a new system we'll be on a new version of windows anyway. Gandorf's advice on this is good. Make sure you install the 64bit version for it to recognise all of your RAM. I'm running home premium and I never have the need for any of the features of professional/ultimate. If you ever feel you are going to add more than 16GB of RAM then go for professional, but unless you need the languages there is no reason to go for ultimate. TL;DR either Home Premium or Professional, not ultimate, and 64bit OEM version.

For that high of a budget I would unreservedly recommend building a computer yourself. A quick 5 minute look suggests you can get the same computer that you linked to for 400 quid less. And you don't end up sticking tri-channel RAM in with a 2600k >.> Two graphics cards basically mean more graphics processing power, so that is good for your needs. Your budget allows you to have a very good setup - I'll stick one together in the morning.

All of that and still a top mounted PSU?! Anyway that is a very nice rig.. what else do you do on it apart from gaming? An i7 2600k OC'd will handle most games - 2 server processors aren't needed for that. Spending 5G's is tonnes too o.O

Fair enough, I just stick some keywords in there within a short sentence excluding unnecessary words, eg "disable key on keyboard" not "how do i disable a key on my keyboard"

I love that game! About the thinking times - you could build an arraylist (thats what it's called in java at least) of available dots it could place, and it could just delete points as they are used up. Then it wouldn't have to wait until an acceptable random point was produced, it would just refer to an array. It would still complete boxes when that's appropriate. That should speed it up a fair bit. Dunno if it would be a bit memory-intensive though. A couple of bugs If you give the computer a box, and the line that is thus drawn creates the opportunity for a new box to be made, then it does not take the chance. eg (ignore dots) _ _ | .. | |_ _| goes to this by a line drawn by me _ . _ |..|..| |_ _| then the computer correctly makes a box _ _ |_|. | |_ _| but it doesn't create the remaining boxes. Shouldn't be too difficult to fix, just stick the existing code in a loop. To eliminate the machine creating easy boxes you can make when it's not necessary, you could simulate a line being made using the proposed coordinates, and then simulate the machine taking another move with code already in place for checking if a box is available (ie coords chosen, check if a box can be made if the proposed line is drawn (using existing code re. machine checking if a box can be made at the beginning of its turn)). if it is true that a box can be made, than get new random numbers. (Is that clear? I dunno) Please don't take this as negative criticism, I enjoy the challenge of programming, thus debugging :P this is far more than I could make though, so i'm not knocking you.

Hmm.. the problem is made harder because it's not a generic key on all keyboards, it's a custom one so to speak, so you may not be able to disable it. There's this utility, but I'm not sure how good it is (and I can't vouch for security, but that should be fine). Or you could try this. I got both of those links from googling "disable key on keyboard". Google normally holds the answers to most stuff. If that doesn't work, and further digging reveals nothing, I would say given how cheap keyboards are now, just go ahead and buy another one.

You can get PCI wifi adapters, eg http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833156054 (assuming you're in the us). Looking at the top rated wireless adapter on newegg, on this list, it shows this has the highest rating.

I think so, it would make sense anyway, what with the skin constantly being replaced. I know I lose my tan over time. You have to lose some, otherwise you would slowly get more and more tanned.

Naturally all the way for me. I have slightly darker skin naturally (though I'm still white/caucasian) so I rarely burn. There's this girl at my school who uses artificial tan and it's just orange - it's absolutely hideous and actually humorous how bad it looks. Why would I want to look like that when I can sit outside instead? I'm not particularly concerned about any side effects of tanning - I know it can be quite dangerous in Australia and I know everyone down there is extremely cautious, however up here in England or in France so long as you don't sit out in the sun all day and massively burn yourself, I don't think there's lots to be worried about.

Not gonna lie there are better ones out there - the Antec Basiq range is not the best. However that should be fine, I used one non-modular one in a build a while ago and it runs well.

Got a 50 freestyle time? Nias blog btw.

Reinstalling is probably the easiest thing to do.

I'm puzzled more than anything. It doesn't appear to be any middle-easten/Islamic terrorism (after all, of all people o attack.. Norway?), so I guess it's pretty much narrowed down to something within the state as Cheat said. I'll be following this closely. It's saddening to notice the targets of the attacks were youths, and the aftermath of the bombing appears horrific from the pictures.

Unless Lion uses a different filesystem, which I find unlikely, then there should be no reason why they don't give you access to the raw data.. Saw this thread on another forum, I dunno if it applies to you though. You could always find an program that allows windows to read and write from HSF+ drives, rip the data to your computer, then use a NTFS or FAT32 formatted drive, stick the data you ripped from the HSF drive onto that and then transfer it back to your mac.

I'm not sure if you're talking metaphorically or not, but never open a PSU. Even when unplugged the capacitors hold an electric charge that can throw you across the room at best, and kill you at worst.

You should consider whether you want a bigger or smaller mouse than the one you have, find the dimensions of your current one, and then compare it to the dimensions of the G9X and the RAT5. It won't tell you everything, but it'll give you a general idea. I reiterate that I found the RAT5 a rather small mouse.

I'm not the person you're referring to, but here's my 2 cents. That CM one would probably be fine, not top of the line, but ok. For low watt PSUs I would buy them, but I'm not sure about the stability of their 1kW units. However yeah it doesn't seem too bad of a PSU and I would get it if there were no better options (which there are). Rosewill, well the brand lets it down. I understand Rosewill to be a mid range/budget line of products, and that's not really the specification you want for a PSU. For a small build which draws much under 500W you could probably scrape by, but otherwise no. The Raidmax I think is similar to the Rosewill.

I would not recommend that. Corsair, Antec or Seasonic are the three brands which you should look at for a gaming setup. I would recommend something like this. It's a solid PSU which will almost definitely not fail on you. That in-win one is 100W more and $2 cheaper, but there's probably a reason for that.

Once you get up to 750++k put some money in MTK. That makes me a tonne with no effort at all. Actually getting to that cashpile, well I can't help much there.

You could try as Sy suggested, but that mouse looks cheap so you may as well get another cheap one if having a stab at fixing that one doesn't work.

Hmm, why the 6GB of RAM? There are no tri-channel C2D CPUs AFAIK.

Mostly I was just future-proofing in case I wanted to sli another card but honestly that won't happen. Thanks for the advice, I think I'll go with that first one. That's a good choice, but 750W is perhaps a little overkill TBH.

60% of the 1 in 7 "poor" people are paying for cable or satellite t.v. each month. I'm sorry, but if you "can't afford" basic necessities like food but you can afford pay for cable each month, you shouldn't be receiving food stamps. I agree with this completely. I'm in favour of aggressive anti-poverty social programs and always have been - but the government does not exist to give people a free ride. I agree with sees_all too. To your point about the government giving people a free ride obsfucator (nice new name?) I think it's also an issue this side of the pond and it irritates me massively, not least because little seems to be done to stop it.

I wouldn't really reccomend a Raidmax PSU. A PSU is something you really don't want to skimp on. Get a Corsair, Antec or Seasonic. Regarding the ampage, its never been something I've taken any consideration on, or seen anyone actually look at. If you get a decent PSU it should work... I don't know if that's just me being stupid though.