Guy

Have you bought yet? If not, consider waiting for Ivy Bridge in like 10 days.

Forgive me for coming on TIF for a short time to confirm what I've been thinking ever since I left RS - Jagex is milking its dieing game as much as it can before it dies. I'm not surprised in the slightest, this has been coming for a long time.

There is a reason that Microsoft is trying to get people off IE6.. surprisingly it's because IE6 is terrible in terms of security, what with it being released, oh, 11 years ago with the last update being just under 4 years ago. This is just an example. A majority of the time updates are not just aesthetic, there are behind-the-scenes updates fixing security, for example. Yes, firefox's new release cycle is stupid, or at least poorly executed, but that's not really the point. I'm also not sure where you're getting this feature bloating thing from, Chrome isn't exactly complicated. Oh, and your argument contains a whole load of assertions, I'll do my best to ignore them.

Don't use IE9 for anything. If you need it for school/work/whatever then just use it then.

If you actually were being DDoS'd then you would have no doubt about it. The whole thing about your upload is what ADSL is based on - Asymmetric digital subscriber line - people don't need as much upload speed as they do download, though I'll admit 0.45MBPS is a little slow. Fluctuation is normal, happens sometimes randomly, especially at peak times.

I didn't think I would like mine, especially coming from a laptop-style keyboard, but they really are amazing. I know, everyone says that, but there isn't really any way to say it that isn't clichéd. The feedback is amazing and little pressure is needed to press down the keys. I have the corsair vengeance k90 with cherry mx red.

Oh right, I was just wondering why you stuck a controller in there. For racing games, a wheel might be nicer, but that's just down to personal preference. I'm not sure about the whole overclocking thing actually, it's not something I've thought about. The RAM is only rated for 1.25V though so you may not be able to/will damage/destroy get it to 1.5V. On what grounds do you think it'll be safer? (Genuine question). I've got that fan controller, it's a nice one and it's a nice price.

You can get 1.5V 1600MHz RAM for $40, a cool $10 saved. Upgrade to Caviar black, not blue. I'd get that extra 0.5" on your monitor too. Check if the 212Evo comes with thermal paste pre-applied - I believe it does and it's not bad quality. Also - why the controller? A mouse is a lot better for things like FPS games. Other than that, fantastic!

I would totally advise against that PSU, but oh well. No offence, but if you're going to ask for advice from people who keep up with the industry and have done tens if not hundreds (even if theoretical) builds, and not take it, what's the point? We don't work for Antec or Corsair or whatever, we just want what's best for you. The fact of the matter is that a PSU can fry your ENTIRE build, and it's no use saying 'now how am I going to get another computer' when your $800 one is dead. Dramatic? Yes. Possible? Definitely.

i5-2300 2.8ghz lga1155 quadcore 6mb cache 179.99 tigerdirect freeshipping - If you can squeeze it into your budget, get a 2500k for overclocking. If you can't fit it or don't want to overclock, then get the i5-2400 Gigabyte GA-Z68AP-D3 lga1155 sata6.0 crossfirex hdmi mobo 99.99 tigerdirect - Fine Ultra lsp650 650W PSU atx sata sli 135mm 64.99 tigerdirect freeshipping - Don't get this, get one from a good brand like Corsair, Seasonic or Antec Evga GeForce gtx 560 ti superclocked 1gb 229.99 tigerdirect freeshipping - Fine HDD through bestbuy for 89.99 500gb and itll be with giftcards i have. - Mind being more specific? Which model/make PNY XLR8 Ram ddr3 1600mhz 8gb 44.99 tigerdirect - Fine Like Sbrideau said, the CM HAF series is an amazing bet. The storm scout is also good if it's cheaper, or the M59 from NZXT. I think there's some way you can install windows fully from the upgrade, not sure how though (linky). I'd get a custom cooler, I don't have amazing experiences with the stock intel one, and you'll definitely want one for overclocking.

Yep, I was referencing the fact that WMM isn't exactly an amazing program, although I couldn't recommend any free alternatives.

I'm not sure if you can crop the bars out with movie maker.. I'm surprised you can run it without your computer catching on fire or something equally dramatic.

Powerline adapters are amazing, there is basically no speed drop for most houses. In my house though some sockets do not work with others, but that's due to the design of the house and the electrical wiring. It should work in yours (99.99% of the time they will), but be wary that it may not. Wireless of course has the issue of less speed and also packet dropping, but you can get internal PCI adapters which are cheap. Edit: Be wary that, while it's lovely when rebates work, I've not heard the best stories regarding success rates.

Intel's motherboards are not good competition for other brands, including ASRock. ASRock are a good brand, even if you haven't heard of them. If it makes you feel any better they are owned by Asus.

Not many games use more cores than 2, let alone threads, but if you want then go ahead I gues. Yes it's worth the upgrade, the 570 is very nice. The Asus 1155 high-end boards are very expensive if I recall correctly. The ASRock Z68 Extreme4/Extreme3 Gen3 are both good motherboards, one is slightly more expensive than the other.

- You don't need a 2600k for gaming, get the 2500k - it's cheaper - With that high of a budget I'd get a 570 or a 6970, whichever suits. - Check if the Samsung Spinpoint F3 is cheaper than the caviar black - traditionally the latter is more expensive but they are equal in terms of performance. - Get either 4GB (2x2GB) or 8GB(2x4GB) RAM. 16GB is unnecessary. - Do you really need the bluray drive? You can ditch blu-ray capabilities for a nice price saving. - Don't get a mATX board, go ATX.

Oh, for video editing extra RAM will help out. If you don't want to spend the extra £40 now though you could just go with the 8GB and stick another 2x4GB sticks in at a later point if you see fit, it's really just plug and play. It depends on how much video editing you do and how intensive it is, ie is it HD video etc.

The reason you can't play Skyrim is because your computer is ancient, to put it bluntly. You could upgrade your graphics card, but that's pretty much out of the question because of your PSU and also your CPU will bottleneck it anyway. It isn't worth trying to upgrade that, just buy a new one. With regards to your question about build/buy, definitely build. I can not and probably will never recommend a prebuilt for anything over $350. They do not give you quality components a vast majority of the time, and also they horribly mismatch parts, for example giving you a 2600k with a 6670 card, just stupid. We can help you with a build, just say the word. It's really easy, it's just like somewhat delicate lego.

I hope you're kidding me. Are you trying to say that a OcUK GPU is made with the same materials, the same quality, as a MSI or EVGA GPU? You're wrong on so many levels. I'm not seeing where you're getting OcUK from? Is what is listed on his final build.

So did I, doesn't it even say on all the password changing and sign up screens right by the password box 'Not case sensitive' I haven't properly played RS for a while now, so I haven't seen those pages for a loooong time.

That must pretty new since I do have a capital letter and some punctuation in my Rs password. Special characters =/= punctuation in all contexts. Special character generally refers to the ones you get via alt codes and such opposed to the ones on the keyboard anyway. Also you can type capitals into rs passwords, but it doesn't matter as they are not case sensitive. Eg Bob BOB bob bOb etc. Are all the same password. Wait, what? That's just.. that's just stupid.

Length is a big issue - even if you have a mixture of symbols, special characters, letters (upper and lower case), and numbers, if the password is under ~15 characters then anyone who really wants to get in will just bruteforce it within a reasonable amount of time. If you're super-concerned about people getting access, choose a password above 20 or so characters, although I doubt people care enough to get into your TIF account. Make sure not to use any words, even a mixture of them. Also no birthdays or names of people who you know which could easily be guessed, eg name of SO.

Should be able to get the warranty to replace it, I'm not sure if that's covered in whatever guarantee apple uses, but you could 'bend' the truth.

Could you post the link please? I'd love to take a look