Chris

It has a different name from the filename. When you install a font it takes on its proper "fontname" and in some cases people don't name the filename correctly. If you have a link to the font (if it's free) put it here, I'll download it and find out what's up.

Correctamundo. In short. Hardrive crash = you buggered.

1: Usually MP3 players in cars whether it be CD or USB/SD use the root directory. Easiest way to find out is try it. You won't break the stereo, all that'll happen is it won't work. 2: Usually USB hardrives require a lot more power than the basic 5V that the port gives out. If the hardrive only has 1 USB port and no external power supply, then yes it'll probably work. Unless your stereo has more than 1 USB port, then you can use a hardrive with 2. :thumbsup:

http://northlite.50megs.com/ps/screenshot.htm If you're wondering what magic words I put into Google to give such an obvious answer... "Taking a screenshot on a mac". :uhh:

Just built that PC on Newegg and I could build a better one for cheaper. Admittedly I'm not taking into account that not everyone knows how to build a PC... Just thought I'd do it as I'm bored... Raidmax xB ATX-528B Black ATX Mid Tower - $19.99 Logisys 550W PSU with SATA and 20/24 pin connectors - $18.99 MSI K9NU Neo-V Socket AM2 ATX motherboard - $64.99 AMD Athlon 64X2 4600+ Windsor Socket AM2 - $249.00 G.Skill 1GB DDR2 800MHz - $124.99 Western Digital Caviar SE 250GB 7200RPM SATA 3.0Gb/s (OEM) - $68.99 Sony 16X DVD+/-RW (Black) - $29.99 connect3D Radeon X1900GT 256MB DDR3 PCI-E (OEM) - $249.99 Creative Sound Blaster Audigy SE 7.1 (OEM) - $27.99 Rosewill 2+1 Port PCI Firewire card (Cable bundle) - $7.99 Kinamax 23 in 1 USB 2.0 Card Reader (OEM) - $6.99 Rosewill black PS/2 Optical mouse (OEM) - $2.99 Lite-on black USB keyboard - $3.99 DCT Factory 2.1 Speakers (Subwoofer + 2 sattelite speakers) - $7.99 Microsoft Windows XP Home SP2B (OEM) - $89.99 Total - $974.86 Could have been cheaper but I was going for your value anyway, and my goal was to build a better PC in general. General tips: The motherboard you're buying with that PC doesn't have SATA2, so you won't be able to use the 3.0Gb/s that's advertised with the drive. The memory you chose is not utilising the motherboards max bus speed. Admittedly someone could correct me, as I've not had much experience with DDR2 or AM2 sockets. I don't understand the video card you chose, it says 2x as if there's 2 of them, and the fact that it says SLI at the end is disturbing as the motherboard doesn't have support for SLI.

Motherboard monitor for the first. Unsure about the second... I know there is programs that can do it, but I think they're the sort of program that has additional nasties. So I won't bother. :

I didn't read any of that, it's too long. And I'm feeling VERY lazy today. Admittedly Friday the 13th is unlucky for some... Now I'm not supersticious or anything, but I'm using this as an excuse for my absoultely horrible day at work. So now I'm going to get very drunk and hope that it wasn't because of the day... Or I'm probably not going to see anyone on here again. :ohnoes:

Well your only other option apart from taking one of the cards out of a PC is to get a new USB wireless adapter, or get a PCI card and install it yourself. Unsure if that would void any warranty though. In my own experience, I don't find USB ethernet or wireless adapters very handy. I'd rather use a PCI card in a PC or a PCMCIA card in a laptop.

I too use MSJVM, I keep a saved file in My Documents for everytime I format. If you want me to send it to you give me a PM. I'll zip it up and upload it to one of those weird filesharing thingiemabobs. Rapidshare or whatever. I think usually after installing it, it needs at least one security update. Which is done automatically. Unless you're running a naughty copy of XP. #-o

Adding onto zonda's post which has just about everything you need. It could also be disabled in the BIOS. So to re-cap. Check 'Device Manager' (Google it if you don't know where it is.) Check the BIOS (Usually accessed when first booting up the PC by pressing something like 'Del') Check the cables inside the PC (especially the small white-ish one if it doesn't have any lights flashing when you first switch on your PC) Or just more simply, buy another one. :

Easiest way to find out if it's the adapter, try another wireless adapter/card from one other PC in it. If it works, it's the adapter. :wink: Usually hardware flaws are detected by process of elimination. Just swapping different bits till it works or not usually does it. :)

Do you know anything about Internet Explorer? There is nothing wrong with using it. I've been using Internet Explorer at home and at work for many years as my primary browser, I do not suffer from any usability issues nor any spyware or viruses. I second that. -.- Firefox, Opera and the rest admittedly do protect you against the majority of bad sites (as they're intended for those using IE) but you do know that all browsers have security flaws? Thread starter, you really should give us some feedback. :-k

Unless they're computer literate, you could just add it to their hosts file. Instead of redirecting to 127.0.0.1 (local) you could redirect it to a page made by yourself or someone else that actually tells them what their problem is.

http://support.invisionfree.com/index.p ... topic=2255 Check that. Have you set the permissions correctly? To view in particular.

If it's just RuneScape it probably isn't driver related. If you're having problems with any other program/game, it'd be nice to know about it. It might help. I really can't offer any more assistance than what has already been said without more information. Download PC Wizard. Could you tell me what it says your motherboard is? Then I can direct you to new chipset/motherboard drivers. I hope.

Usually Windows saves the last know position of each window. So if you opened Word and maximised it, then closed it. It should open maximised. Do you have any software like CCleaner? That can remove window positioning information (or whatever you want to call it).

This really is confusing as hell, I bet it's something simple too... I still say the easiest way to scroll faster would be to change the value in the registry or use Control Panel and change it there. Instead of 3 lines, try 8 or 10 lines? I tested it with 50 and it could scroll TIF from the top to the Off-Topic section in one "click". Also trying Scars' idea with the scrolling one page at a time? I'm really stumped though... :wall:

http://www.cpuid.com/pcwizard.php Download and install, open and navigate to whatever you want. It'll tell you what hardware you have.

Creative are literally the worst company I've ever found for having drivers on their site. We had to use CD's even in the shop because we had so much trouble getting drivers from their site. My suggestion is to wait and get the driver disk.

That'll be your hardrives. It's easy to find out anyway, just right click a drive letter and see if it says 'Eject'.

Unbelievable... I completely misunderstood you. Ignore that last PM I sent, it pretty much tells you what you'd already seen in Control Panel. I know what you mean... Looking for an answer, although I don't think you can. Every mouse I know works like your new one. Now if you actually press the button down (click it like a normal button) and then move the mouse down the screen it will scroll like you say. Maybe your old mouse was actually broken and had the button permanently pressed? :P Either that or you had specific software that told the PC what to do with the wheel?

I would wish for a 3 foot blonde with massive assets and a flat head. :mrgreen:

Usually you can search for help on a specific game with Google and it'll give you some fairly accurate ways of getting it to work. I had to do that with Red Alert 1.

Reason it'll be going slow is you've not installed the motherboard drivers. You'll also find it's handy to install video drivers too. :-w

Landon you smeghead! Cougar is always in need of free stuff from people who quit. You should know that by now. :wall: