Doomster

1 attack = rubbish weapon (Iron, Blurite sword or Silverlight). Do 8 attack on the dummies (no extra HP), and use Vampire slayer for more attack, though if you range to get to d-hide use, I'd suggest doing the count on rapidfire at 20 range - with low attack, he may recover too much between any hits you do get using melee. Aim to do Knight's sword, and get to smithing of full iron. Getting 40 ranged for green d-hide chaps & vambs is also useful on a Str pure. The final piece of defensive equipment is the Stronghold of security boots. Not sure if any less than 40 attack really works, because of the attack & strength bonuses of rune weapons, thoungh perhaps a Mithril weaponed (20 attack) pure would be cheap to re-equip.

Full rune may be the best melee armour in F2P, but it's still an excellent value melee armour in members. When I finally do it, first priority will be a dragon weapon, rather than better armour, so training-level monsters can be defeated faster.

With a decent midrange like a 6600, I'd be inclined to hold out for as long as possible, at least until Nvidia versus ATI competition hots up in DirectX 10, as that will probablt bring prices down or performance up even more.

If your ISP already marks spam, there are usually options for it's disposal, usually set up within webmail, even if you normally use a mail program. Typically, that would be to receive marked, hold in a folder for 7 days or delete immediately - the 7 day web folder option is usually best, as it gives somewhere to look if an expected message fails to come through. A problem with many spam marking systems, is that the filters could do with better tuning - I would prefer a good RBL over attempting to mark spammy content, that usually traps useful newsletters as well. There is NO way to clean up an account once the scum have got hold of it - good practice is to only give out redirectors, such as spamgourmet. It could just be coincidence, one thing to beware of is leaving email addresses, passwords or anything important in the clipboard, as that can be stolen using javascript.

Video game addiction, is when the game grinds you! It's all too easy to say someone is addicted to games, internet, shopping or anything else they may do excessively, but there is a big step between "liking something more than is good for you" and actually being addicted, the main point being the reactions when NOT doing it.

On CAKES !!!! - welcome to Lumbridge! The one alternative, stews - level 25 to cook, no fishing, and heals 11 - only 1 less than Lobster. Pizza or Apple pie are also way better than cakes as they are two bites, not 3 - cakes are just too slow to eat in combat.

If you do it without telegrab, leave the "Rapid Restore" prayer on to help prop up your combat stats. You could also use some other prayers, since the altar is close - maybe your best attack & strength prayers (or mage/range as required) when killing the Monks, and maybe melee protect and rapid heal. Nothing will protect against the hit you take when picking up the wine, only telegrabbing will save you from stat damage. If you go non-telegrab, then on the banking run, turn off all your combat prayers, but leave the recovery ones on, though you still tend to end up with nuked combat stats after 2 or 3 runs - maybe use a session of telegrabbing while you recover, or go and do something that doesn't need combat.

Any progress? More RAM will certainly help, as XP plus any great application load will result in massive swapfile hammering in 256MB or less. Runescape can use about 90MB of Java application memory, and tha's in addition to what the runtime itself uses - pretty much guarantees that almost everything else will be swapped heavily. 2GB total is probably overkill for "normal" use, 1GB is generally comfortable for most WinXP workloads, and 512MB would still be a hell of a lot better than 256. While RuneScape and most general use is not heavily dependent on a graphics card, relieving the onboard chipset and system RAM from graphics workloads generally improves performance, even if the graphics card used is no more than comparable to the onboard. Unless going for graphics-intesive games that DO make strong use of a card, a cheap Geforce 6200 or 7300 model, or perhaps an ATI X1300/X1550 (the 1550 is a renamed 1300) would do. If it has a graphics card slot, it will be AGP

Try for a full set of skull sceptre pieces on a single load of food. Go for an extra crafting level, so you can do Green d-hide bodies when you get members again. Craft air runes at 6x per run, you can never have too many air runes - or do a spot of W16 crafting (boring, but a good boost to your rune stocks and RC level). Alternatively, just take a RSbreak until you get members back, as there are better ways to do pretty much anything in members.

I like to combine this with Mind runes - go round the hill to the mind altar, craft mind runes, then go north (dodge the dark wizards) to the mine - you lose a space for coal, but it's a good double-trip. Doing just coal, I would take a few pieces of low-grade food (trout/salmon/kebabs/pies) though that's easy for me, as I run any character from my main down to my pures and fun-runners as fisher-cooks. You either eat the food when you need to, or to save a space. Staying deep inside this or the hobgoblin mine is usually a good idea, as is engaging a monster as soon as any player dot is seen. You want a mage or ranger to be at risk from the monsters, before they can attack you. Next, take the view low and spin it to face them, you want to sight their combat level, as they may be unable to bother you. Particularly if you play more than one account, lets say a pure, possibly higher than an iron pure, and a main, then REMEMBER what your combat level is - and if there are others not quite within attack level of you, then stay southwards. It can be tense if there is another miner close to your combat level there - keeping your distance is usually best. If you are attacked and escape, you may like to remember the name, and quickly return with best weapon, armour and food while they are still skulled on you. Tactics for this mine apply doubly so for the hobgoblin mine, in deeper wildermess, with tougher opposition.

I'd suggest General, with both F2P and P2P as subs (for topics which really fall only one way) - run it like that for a month or two, and see if one or both of the subs naturally withers or turns to crap.

It's a good weapon to hold for attention, like the skull sceptre, or some old holiday items, the rubber chicken or the scythe.

One of these days, I'll get round to timing it: 3 possible trips (to the Karamja boat), assuming that you've just LHP'd. 1. Up to the castle top bank, down, then west past Draynor & south into Port Sarim 2. West, use Draynor bank, then go rounf to the port 3. Through the Al-Kharid gate, South to the bank, then use the Shantay teleport, escape from the cell, and then a short hop to the departure point The added time for lockpicing probably turns it

Maybe just coincidence, but quite often, reporting a level 3 at the Yews, sees them getting a random within the next miniute - do the reports get added immediately to the random event generator, making the report target more likely to be hit by one? In real terms, there can't be much chance of finding an honest level 3 skiller among the insane amount of alphanumeric soup names infesting every Yew like greenfly.

To take a 100% F2P example... 1. "Selling tiles, 50k each" (nothing wrong with that, though other players will no doubt drown out the calls with "stfu, tiles are useless) 2. "Selling tiles, 50k each" 2a. "Buying tiles, 100k" - if a partner establishes a false market, then THAT is a scam What IS the point of tiles?

As a general rule, value the item at a general store with no stock, then add 50% - this should work for pretty much every item, other than the odd few which do have an alch value but cannot be sold to stores.

Offtopic, but YES, if you want them as members, since each account is seperate - of course, you can "park" the ones you are not currently using in F2P, but only on a month by month switch.

http://www.cfos.com/speed/cfosspeed_e.htm Note the BETA, multiuser version - maybe that can achieve fair co-operation, though it would need to be on both machines, that's about 30 EU. You might be able to get one free licence by submitting an ISP test, if they don't already have yours listed.

An Athlon XP wouldn't be using DDR2... It was on the crossover between SDRAM (PC133) and DDR, with some motherboards and chipsets having some pretty serious compatibility problems with RAM density and single/double sided issues. Identify the motherboard (often shows briefly during the BIOS bootup) and look it up at Crucial, or run their wizard, even if you don't end up buying there.

Not member (yet, but soon, going for some decent stats and then I'll get the odd month when it's worth it). As I understand it, using the Abyss avoids the chaos maze, so if you care to run the gauntlet of the runecrafter Pkers, worth a shot. Chaos are an adequate combat (better if you have chaos gauntlets) or trade rune, especially if deaths are a long, long way away.

Probably one of the random results from an Evil Stew. Orange spice can raise or lower runcrafting, up to +/- 6 for a 3 spice dose.

It's OEM Windows XP, so there are issues with any upgrade that would costitute a "new" computer - if the motherboard and network interface remain the same, then ther should be a lot it will take before needing re-activation. More memory, definitely - Windows XP is struggling in 224MB 224MB ? That's suspicious - looks like 256MB with 32 used for onboard graphics, so a graphics card (if it will take one) would also be a worthwile improvement - pretty well anything that carries an Athlon XP would be monumentally outclassed by any current graphics card (even the cheapest), and it takes some load off the system memory as well. Take a rummage around device manager, and pick out the name of the graphics controller and a few other components - the chipset maker name should appear in several of the system components.

There is confusion... IDE is "intelligent drive electronics", representing the move of the drive controller onto the drive, with the computer side now being just a bus interface, so "IDE" and "ATA" (AT Attachment) are synonymous. Old style ATA is now known as PATA (Parallel ATA) to distinguish it from the new style - SATA (Serial ATA). Old style ATA also has different speed flavours, particularly that ATA/66 or above demands the use of an 80-wire cable, with extra ground wires seperating the signal wires to reduce crosstalk. Anyway, the main point is that old style ATA allows two drives per cable, operating as Master/Slave - and there may be more than one connection on the motherboard for them - the old way was to have two (each capable of two drives), and sometimes additional ones operated by a second controller - eg. RAID controller, while now, it's often down to one, or none. Most (all?) 80 wire cables (Ultra ATA) are wired to support cable select, with the blus plug going to the motherboard, the black plug at the end as select master, and the brown one in the middle as select slave. With all drives jumper-selected as "CS", this makes swapping drives around a lot easier, otherwise you have to select them manually, as you would on a 40-wire cable that does not support select. For manual jumpering: One drive on a cable, should be set as MASTER (this is usually the default state with the select jumper in a parked position or missing) and should be set at the far end. The second drive added to the cable must be set as slave, though the first drive could be re-assigned as slave and the second inserted as Master. On a 40 wire cable, it is not essential to preserve the positioning (Master = end , Slave = middle), but I'd always insist on a single drive being at the end.

Rune store autobuyers are my "shoot on sight" for reporting, they really are the lowest of the low, and there's usually only one or two of them - also, since they may be carrying a considerable amount of cash or runes, if they get banned, that's a loss of materials for their botmaster.

The two major styles of "pure ranger" are the 1 defence pure (usiing dragonhide and a leather or iron chainbody) or the full dragonhide ranger (40 defence AFTER any appropriate defence-gaining quests are completed - similar to a "perfect" rune pure). In members, the higher grades of dragonhide make full dragonhide more potent in both attack and defence bonuses, though 45 defence can be used to allow the use of a Fremenik (Archer) helm. At lower level, the attack bonus of the hardleather body (10 defence) possibly comes close to compensating for the defence-based combat level increase, with the advantage that a hardleather body is also a very cheap armour piece. I'd be inclined to use melee to build defence, rather than halving the range XP by longranging. 8 Attack from the dummies, get a bit more attack from Vampire slayer (range it), if you can range (members) Dragon slayer using better crossbows or bow and antifire pot, you'll get some strength & defence there). Chase down any other quests that give defence, then get the required level for equipment (dragonhide 40 or fremmy-archer 45) using the best melee weapon you can use, or by optional quest XP, such as the one small favour lamps (10k xp each).