das1330

0/10 never seen you before

I keep trying to let you guys get nice and high before I knock you down, but by that time another mod always posts. 0

0 Us mods already knoe about it well enough

try canceling the order? Dell usually doesent give you many problems about canceling.

It is compatible with the PC, but its not easy. I remember reading a guide somewhere made by a guy who did it. You have to download all sorts of software, configure it etc.

If that's true, we'll need to update the construction tables, I need to know how much each chest holds for house-building purposes... XD They can't hold much. Its cut down to the same 3k limit again if I remember correctly.

Like Mazurizi said, it really depends on your budget. Without knowing it, I would direct you to Toms hardware. The article linked there explains all of the best graphics cards for a budget between 50-1000$. Any of the cards labeled as PCI-E will work just fine. Also, one word about buying the card - do NOT buy it at a local shop. Computer parts are MUCH cheaper on the internet, sometimes as little as half the price. If you live in the United States, Newegg is considered to be one of the best online sellers.

Naah Cruiser you are still right. The 8800GT is also based on the G92 core revision, so its only about ~3% slower then the 8800gts based on the G92 revision.

No, I think he's right. The motherboard chipset is about 3 years old, and the current intel processors are about 25-30% faster then current AMD ones for the same price. Oh, and WOW 300 Euros for an 8800gts? They are about 300$ here.

I take it the computer is a desktop? In that case, it depends on what you do with the computer. If you just web surf and do things that don't strain the graphics card much (and thus don't produce much heat), you might be able to just let the fan die and go along normally, but since the card cannot get rid of heat was well, you may have overheating problems. If that happens, you might want to consider replacing the fan on the card yourself - for most cards its pretty easy, and it shouldn't cost more then 2-3$.

Yep, its fried. While it might be possible to recover the contents of the drive, don't count on it. Recovering the data would probably be very expensive and have a very low chance of success.

You have a PCI-X slot? Is the motherboard a server motherboard? It really depends on the motherboard weather or not integrated graphics will work at the same time as a card or not. As far as cheap AGP cards with dual monitor out ports, This card would do well.

all the spacers do is electrically isolate the motherboard from the case, to prevent the little exposed wires from touching the case and shorting out the board. It didn't fit because cases and motherboards are both designed for the spacers to be used - its assumed. As far as damage to the motherboard, it is possible, but not likely. The spacers are there more as insurance rather then being a required component, so the metal reinforcing pieces around the screws are usually isolated from the rest of the board.

140,000 kilobytes = 140 megabytes of memory, which is about 12% usage on your PC's memory. It sounds like somthing else is hogging your memory.

We are saying that because there is much less destructive ways of deleting a virus. But anyway, If you really want to nuke your HDD, heres how to do it: 1.Download the program above "DBAN" 2. Download a program for writing image files to cd's. Note an image, or "ISO" file is NOT a regular cd that can be just copy and pasted. You will need a program specifically made for writing ISO files to cds. I use PowerISO, but a quick google search yielded the free program Here. Follow the instructions listed there to burn the ISO image to a cd. 3. Once you have the CD burned, turn your computer off and on again (a hard reboot, don't just restart it). In the first few seconds before the windows XP login screen appears, there should be a screen with Either the computer manufacturer's logo if it was prebought, or the motherboard manufacturers logo, if you built it. When this screen is displayed, you should see something along the lines of "Press F12 to enter setup" or "Press [DEL] to enter setup" The key you need to press varies by manufacturer, but it is generally one of the "F" keys or the delete key. 4. After that, you should be to a blue screen with several different options in a list like "processor", "ram", "system clock" and (most importantly for you) "boot order". Use the arrow keys and enter to select the Boot order menu. Inside you should have several disks listed in a row, that looks something like this: 1. Floppy drive 2. HDD 0 3. HDD 1 4. CD drive 5. USB and so on and so forth. This list tells the computer where to look for operating system files first. Your computer should look something like that above. Again, since you want to boot from the CD drive and not the hard drive, Use the enter key and arrow keys so that "cd drive" is repositioned at the top of the list. Now exit these screens, saving the settings when prompted. 5. Now again turn off and restart your system, with the DBAN disk you just made already in the CD drive. You will get the DBAN prompt. Now type "Autonuke" and hit enter. This will Completely wipe your hard drive - no files will be recoverable. Now let DBAN do its work, and once it's done turn off your system and insert the windows Disk you have, or have made. The windows disk should have come with a prebuilt system. If it did not, call the manufacturer and have them send you one. Alternitivly, you can download the CD and burn it to a disk just like you burned DBAN. Windows cd's are not copy protected - only the cd keys are, so it IS legal to do this. Again, when you boot into the computer, a windows XP install screen should appear. From there windows guides you through the process, so ill leave ya there. However, Nadril is right. You should ONLY do the above AFTER you have tried booting into safe mode first. That's not particularly hard to do, but if you need help in doing that, I can give you instructions on how to do it.

Honestly, I only use about 25 minutes a month on the cell phone. I got it more so I only have 1 device to carry around, and because its fairly unique as far as phones go (around where I live anyway)

Absolutely the best phone I have ever had (though only the second). My dad made a deal with me where he would get me an Iphone if I could find a way to get out of my two year Verizon contract early without paying the termination fee. It took me a week of staring at a contract written in lawyerish, but I eventually figured it out. :D

Really, 99% of viruses we can get rid of if you just let us know what's wrong.

If it is a virus, download Avast! antivirus, Adaware and Spybot s&d. Run scans with all of them, and see what they turn up. Like Nadril said, getting rid of a hard drive is EXTREME overkill. No virus can survive a good hard drive formatting.

In that case, try downloading and running memtest at http://memtest86.com

The hard drive is probably dead, it has nothing to do with your motherboard. Because hard drives (unlike most computer parts) use platters being spun by a motor at 7200 RPM, getting a drive with a manufacturing error that causes it to not work at all is fairly common. Hard drive failures have a so-called "bathtub" effect. Early on in the drives life, manufacturing defects cause them to fail (the first ~3 months). During most of its life cycle, failure rates are fairly low, and after about 10 years, they start dying of old age.

I used to know a guy named "plasticbag"

The bold makes it sound like its not a power supply going bad. While shops are known to use cheap PSU's to keep costs down, a computer that has a power supply problem will lock up and shut down consistently, not "sometimes shutting down and sometimes not." A memory error sounds most likely to me. As said above, taking out one stick of memory at a time and checking for random shut downs will work, but (I think)Memtest might do the job as well. It scans your computer's memory for bad sectors. I know for a fact that both the US and UK have laws against voiding the warranty of a computer just for opening the case. If you somehow break something else then it's not covered, but as long as you use common sense, that shouldn't happen.

I have never had a problem with any of creative's sound cards. As far as other ones, there really isnt any alternatives to their cards. Most of the other brands are either very small, or they just use creatives chips and their refrence design wit their own label.

Did you try plugging it in? if it still doesent work when plugged in, then its not the battery.